Common names for the Bartlett’s Anthias include Lyretail Anthia, Evansi Anthias, and Bartlett’s Fairy Bass. They originate from the Pacific Ocean: Palau, Kosrae in the Caroline Islands, Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, Nauru and Fanning Islands in Kiribati. Recently recorded from Tonga.

Lyretail Anthia
Lyretail Anthia

These busy, colourful fish like to occupy the mid to upper portions of a tank, a do best when kept in a groups in a ratio of about one male to four females or juveniles. Ideally, only one male should occupy your aquarium, otherwise they will likely fight.

These fish are hermaphroditic. If the dominant male dies or is removed from your tank, the largest female will turn into a male to take it’s place.

As these fish are quite shy, it is best for them to be one of the first introduced to your tank. They are considered to be one of the easier Anthia species to keep in an aquarium.

Tank Requirements & Facts

Bartletts Anthia
Bartlett’s Anthia
  • Minimum tank size: 70 Gallon (318 Litres)
  • Prone to disease: No
  • Beginner Compatible: With Caution
  • Adult Size: 5 inches (12.7cm)
  • Reef Compatible: Yes
  • Predator Tank Compatible: No
  • Care Level: Some special requirements
  • pH: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Temperature: 22°C to 27°C
  • Preferred Tank Level: Mid to upper region, but they appreciate additional hiding spaces
  • Lots of hiding places required
  • Tight fitting lid, these fish have been known to jump.
  • Number to a tank: To be kept singularly or in a shoal with a ratio of one male to four females or juveniles

Feeding

These fish have special requirements with feeding. They naturally graze throughout the day so food should be offered a minimum of 3 times a day. If regular feeding is not offered your fish may starve. They prefer a diet of frozen and live foods, some will accept flaked foods.

  • These mainly eat Zooplankton and floating filamentous algae.
  • They catch their food in the water column as it passes them
  • They don’t tend to graze on Nori
  • They don’t show much interest in pellets
  • Flaked food, frozen food & live foods are sometimes accepted
  • They enjoy grazing on a population of Copepod’s so a refugium or regular introduction of Pods is recommended

Acclimatisation

When acclimating your Anthia it is best to do so in a deep bucket that the fish is unable to jump out of.

Place your fish in the bucket and then drip acclimate for about 45 minutes at a rate of 3 drips per second. This should bring the fishes water parameters in line with your tanks parameters.

Once your fish has been drip acclimated, catch the fish with a net and place it gently into your tank. Do not put any of the water the fish originally came in, into your tank.

Care should be taken after adding the fish to ensure there is a tightly fitting lid on the aquarium at all times. These fish are known to be jumpers and they are more likely to jump when first introduced to an aquarium.

How to tell the difference between the Carberryi & Bartlett Anthias

Evansi Anthia
Evansi (Bartlett) Anthia

This fish are similar in behavioural traits and colour. The Carberryi tends to grow a little larger than the Bartlett, which may make the Bartlett’smore suitable for some aquariums.

If you choose to keep Barlett’s then the same ratio of one male to a minimum of four females should be adhered to. Many aquarists have reported having success with keeping a mix of Carberryi & Bartlett’s Anthias.

There are some key visual traits of each fish that allows you to easily distinguish the difference between the Bartlett’s & Carberryi Anthias.

Carberryi Anthia
Carberryi Anthia
  1. The Evansi (Bartlett) Anthia has a solid yellow tail.
  2. The Carberryi Anthia has more of a soft pink colouring, whereas the Evansi Anthia has more of a purple colouring.
  3. The Carberryi Anthia has a softer coloured yellow than the Evansi.
  4. The Carberryi Anthia tends to have longer more flowing fins than the Evansi.
  5. Carberryi Anthia can develop yellow underbellies